Domaine Montirius

This brilliant 58 hectare domaine comprising mainly of Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Côtes-du-Rhône has been run biodynamically since 1996. It is planted with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre and a smattering of white varietals. Remarkably, no oak whatsoever is used in the cellar.

The range begins with the Côtes-du-Rhône Les Muse Papilles red and white, blended from 40-year-old vines. The former is Grenache-dominated (with 20% Syrah) while the latter is equal parts Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. In Vacqueyras the Saurels produce a racy white made from Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Bourboulenc (50%) and 3 different cuvées of red. Le Village is made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah from youngish vines and is wonderfully crunchy and bright. Le Clos is a 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah from a large eight-hectare plot of complex soils. It spends 18 months in cement before bottling. The top cuvée Garrigues is 2/3 Grenache and 1/3 Syrah from 65-year-old vines planted on rich soil and producing a powerful wine of real integrity. There are also three cuvées of Gigondas. La Tour is made from younger vines (80% Grenache/20% Mourvèdre) and is pretty and gentle and designed for earlier drinking. Le Clos is the same blend but from 75-year-old vines, whose yields are lower and whose fruit is wonderfully intense. The top wine is the Terre des Ainés, the same cépage blend also from old vines but a blend of three different parcels.