Domaine Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin

The domaine’s extensive premier and grand cru holdings span the entire range of the Chablis stylistic repertory. From mineral La Montée de Tonnerre, Vaudésir and Les Clos to fruitier and softer-textured Vaillons, La Fourchaume and Valmur, with Montmains somewhere between adding citrus and floral notes, site-specific nuances of flavour (and Chablis is all about nuances) are accurately translated into bottle.

Outstanding cellar work here concentrates on using oak sensitively to enhance rather than obscure appellation character: fermentation is carried out variably in oak or stainless steel, and the length and type of barrel ageing programme is adjusted to each wine.

Benoît Droin is now widely recognised as one of Chablis’ top winemakers, receiving plaudits from all the smart commentators. His range of wines offers purity, length and transparency of terroir and also great value for money in view of the very high quality. This is a domaine where one can drink the wines relatively young, though some of the premiers crus and the grands crus inevitably impose a certain amount of cellarage.