Domaine Henry Natter

There’s lots to like at this estate, where Henry Natter’s grandchildren Vincent and Mathilde are today in charge. Organic certification isn’t yet on the cards but a conscious effort is underway to limit treatments in the vineyard. The soil here, around the village of Montigny, is heavier (more clay) than elsewhere in Sancerre, and Vincent explains that the wines are therefore a little more concentrated and benefit from micro-oxygenation – hence the whites are raised in foudres – and tend to improve with a couple of years in bottle. Some of the foudres in question are over a century old and were once used for maturating beer rather than wine.

The Sancerre blanc ’22 underwent MLF (unlike the ’21) but remains lithe and digeste. The Sancerre rouge ’22, made with 10% whole bunches and raised exclusively in tank, was very appetising – I have a sample for us to taste together in due course.