Domaine du Clos Naudin

This star of the Loire Valley dates back to 1919 when Armand Foreau returned from the Great War and set up the domaine. It was he who made the now legendary 47s and 59s, which, if you can find them, still taste amazing today. Armand passed the baton to his son André in the 1960s, who was joined by his own son, Philippe, in 1980. Philippe went on to assume full control in 1983 and then in 2017 passed the keys to the cellar to his son Vincent.

The 12 hectares of vines are all Chenin Blanc, planted in the north-east part of the appellation with excellent sun facing exposures. The best vineyards in the domaine are Les Perruches and Les Ruettes. The domaine is run organically, although it is not certified.

No new oak is used here. In youth, the wines are vivacious (there is no ‘malo’ done), the dry wines tending towards the apple and white fruit aromas rather than spice and honey but time always brings them round. Aside from the dry Vouvrays, Vincent makes a demi-sec, a moelleux, often a moelleux réserve and then, in exceptional vintages, he will go another notch up, though this may only happen once a decade (or less) when he will produce perhaps a Goutte d’Or or even a Prémier Tri. He also produces some high-class sparkling wine, which benefits from lengthy lees ageing and is well worth seeking out.

These are exquisite wines and very food-friendly.