Domaine des Chézeaux

Question. When you own and run one of the top estates in Burgundy, what’s the next thing logical you should do? Simple. Buy another one! And that’s exactly what Charles Van Canneyt did back in 2022. And hats off to Charles, because he managed to finalise the deal in the face of stiff competition from other interested parties.

Remarkably for a domaine with the majority holding of Griotte-Chambertin, a fantastic parcel of very old vines in Gevrey Cazetiers and enviable parcels in both Clos St-Denis and Chambertin, it was hardly known to the outside world at all. This is mainly due to the fact that most of the vineyards were rented out to other producers, who then made the wines under their own labels.

Having shown wonderful agility to secure the estate, Charles’ next big task was to take back control of the various parcels that were being rented out. Under French law, long term contracts such as the ones in place have to be respected or suitable compensation has to be paid. Tackling the task in hand head on, Charles talked directly to the various growers involved and fashioned arrangements that everyone was happy with, so that he could begin farming most of the land immediately. The enormity of this task should not be underestimated and it’s a testament to Charles’ charm and business acumen that he pulled it off so quickly and amicably.

In due course, Charles will construct a new cuverie on site, but for the moment the wines are being made in Vougeot at his family domaine. 2023 is the first vintage he is commercializing the wines, with the Gevrey Clos des Chézeaux, Cazetiers and Griotte being the first ones to be released. Next year, the other three wines will make their debut, although for the Clos St-Denis it will be a very brief moment in the spotlight as he is replanting the parcel next year and there won’t be a 2025 version.

Stylistically the wines will be made with the same approach as the Hudelot wines, with 100% destemming and gentle extraction. Obviously, it will take a little time for Charles to get to know the vineyards and their idiosyncrasies and to work his magic on them, but the old age of the plots will ensure that he can make great wines straight from the off. And, judging by notes from when I finally got to taste the first offerings in November 2024, he has done exactly that.

The lack of wine in 2024 will mean that we won’t see the full impact of these exciting new purchases for another year, although he made as much Griotte in ’24 as he did in ’23 as he took back more vineyards in the intervening month.

This is one of the most thrilling ‘new’ estates to have arrived in Burgundy in recent times. Amazing vineyards to be farmed by a brilliant vigneron. I would suggest that you jump on board as soon as you can as, in the world of gambling, this is about as safe a bet as you could ever make.